Showing posts with label Egypt. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Egypt. Show all posts

Saturday, May 15, 2010

Egypt – Giza Necropolis, aka Pyramids

At last! The Pyramids. The only one of the original "Seven Wonders" still around. It seems ridiculous that just four days ago, we were hiking along the Great Wall. Well, ridiculous and awesome. The Pyramids are big; it's really hard to capture them in a photo and convey their immensity. They were the tallest man-made structure until Medieval times. That's a record that lasted for almost four thousand years. They're still the most massive structure around (unless you count certain land fills...). Additionally, they are old. Really really old. Other than some random stone axes and whatnot in museums, the only man made thing nearly as old that I can think of is Stonehenge. I think they may just pre-date everything else (man made) we've seen by over 2000 years.

We woke up around 6am in order to catch a bus out to the Pyramids by around 7:30am, which should get us there before opening. As you can imagine, there are a lot of people that arrive later in the day, and it is also quite hot later; an early start is a good idea. We found the 'ordinary' (aka non-AC) bus at the bus station at the Antiquities Museum and rode until we could see the Pyramids, and walked around until we found the entrance. There was already a queue forming. We decided against visiting the interior of the Great Pyramid: we'd heard that it was anti-climactic, and it was somewhat expensive.

At 8am when the doors opened, we quickly walked past the largest pyramid (Khufu) to the most iconic (Khafre), which has some of its limestone cap intact. Did I mention that they're big?

From Cairo


Of course, we didn't want to miss the Sphinx, and we figured it would be less crowded early, so we walked along the causeway between the second pyramid and the Sphinx, looking at the back of his head along the way. The Sphinx is a lot smaller than the Pyramids, but it's also carved from a single block of stone. It's also way cooler. The Sphinx is currently undergoing restoration work; we have mixed feelings about that. In general, we approve of things looking new, so long as they look pretty similar to how they looked originally, as it enhances our sense of wonder, but it's really important to do a good job of it. We sat down and stared slack-jawed at the Sphinx for a solid half-hour. It took almost that long for it to sink in that we were really there looking at the Sphinx and the Pyramids.

From Cairo


From Cairo


From Cairo


While we were there, we sometimes had it to ourselves, and other times tour groups would show up, take a few photos, and leave, with most people stopping where they could first see the Sphinx, not walking the extra 10 feet for an excellent view with the Great Pyramid in the background.

From Cairo


Once we'd had our fill of looking and picture taking, we worked our way toward the smallest of the Great Pyramids. We went the back way, not on roads but among the “catacombs” of other minor structures, which have been partially excavated. For the most part these other structures had their entrances closed off by iron gates, but it was interesting to peer into them and fun to walk among them while looking at the pyramids on the one side and the rolling desert on the other. Aside from the occasional brightly clad Egyptian wondering by on a camel trying to sell us a ride, we had this area all to ourselves. When we got there, we had the crumbling temple next to the small pyramid basically to ourselves, where we sat in the shade taking it all in for a while.

From Cairo


From Cairo


From Cairo


From Cairo


Next we walked back to the Great Pyramid and descended into the tombs of the queens in the small pyramids along side it. It was pretty cool climbing down the 45-degree tunnels into the center of the pyramids, though the tomb areas were rather anti-climactic, being basically just tiny stone rooms. All the goods being, of course, long gone. We also went into another tomb that wasn't under any pyramid.

From Cairo


From Cairo


From Cairo


From Cairo


On the way back, we saw the Nile. You know, the river in Egypt.

From Cairo


What a fantastic day! I don't think there's anything else, except maybe Narnia or the Hundred Acre Wood, that I've wanted to see for as long.

Friday, May 14, 2010

Egypt – Coptic Quarter

Mary was recovering from being a sick, so we slept in late. We'll do the pyramids tomorrow. Today we visited the [Coptic] Christian part of town. Egypt was primarily Christian until the Arabs invaded in the 7th century. The Coptic Church split off from the Roman Catholic church in the 5th century.

The area had a Coptic museum and a few nice churches. Honestly, the building the Coptic Museum was in seemed nicer than most of the stuff they had. There was a multitude of window boxes with nice wooden screens, and the ceiling was pretty. There was a nice courtyard that rekindled our interest in having one in our home. The exhibits were well done, but not very spectacular. Cameras were prohibited, so I can only show you the outside.

From Cairo


The churches in the area felt like you might expect a Middle Eastern Church to feel like. There was incense, and the room was dark and intimate. The Hanging Church was built in an old Roman tower. The tower formerly looked out over the Nile, but the Nile has changed course since then. There was a service going on at one of the churches we dropped into, and we got sprinkled with holy water, again. :-)

From Cairo


From Cairo


They really seem to like St. George here. There was even a St. George convent. Lucky St. George! Not quite sure how St. George got to be so popular here though, since we went to the spot where he supposedly killed the dragon when we were in England.

From Cairo


We made it a short day and spent the afternoon playing cards, since Mary didn't want to exert herself too much just yet.

Thursday, May 13, 2010

Egypt – Antiquities Museum

11 hour overnight flight makes Josh and Mary's bodies very confused, but at least the pickup from the hotel worked correctly and was without incident (1 for 3 on the trip).

Cairo is a dirtier city than we're used to after China, but thinking back on India it doesn't seem that bad. There isn't dirt, plastic, and cow poop all over. And let's face it, when you live near a desert, you're going to get sand everywhere.

The hotel staff suggested a couple of possible itineraries for our stay in Cairo. One involved taking the overnight train to/from Luxor, which we had considered. Luxor is actually Thebes, and one of the historic capitals of Egypt. It's also home to the Valley of the Kings, and the enormous temple complex of Karnak, which maybe is supposed to rival Angkor Wat in size. Mary wasn't feeling too well, and we didn't feel too keen on spending consecutive nights on sleeping on trains after spending the night on the plane. We were sure that we wanted to visit the Egyptian Antiquities Museum, and thought we might spend one of our precious three days in Egypt resting, so we wanted to make sure we hit both the (great) Pyramids and the Museum.

From Cairo


The Museum belongs to the warehouse style of museuming, which is rather unfortunate. There's an awful lot to see, and not a lot of text explaining anything. This is one of the few times on this trip I really wish I had a tour guide (there were some touting outside of course, but I don't trust them as a rule). The official guides who really seemed to know what they were talking about were only available to large tour groups. The first floor housed an impressive collection of stelae, sarcophogi, and statues. There was also a Rosetta stone (wikipedia claims that this is a replica sent by the British Museum in lieu of the real thing). It didn't really look that much like the Rosetta stone we saw in the British Museum. Alas, I cannot show you pictures of these things, as cameras were prohibited.

The second floor contains the highlights. Tutenkamen and Mummies. We actually passed on the mummies, as it was another $20 per person, and neither of us were that interested; we've seen mummies, there were lots of them at the British Museum. Tutankamen was amazing though. You've maybe seen it somewhere in the US when it was on tour (Mary was around 8 when she saw it in Portland), surrounded by hundreds of people, all pushing their way to the front. We got minutes of alone time with the mask. It was awesome. The mask, jewelry, and sarcophagus, and various outer layers (there were 4 or 5 gold boxes around the sarcophagus) are spectacular. There were fewer than 20 people in the room with us at any time.

After our face time with King Tut, Josh explored the minor offerings of the second floor while Mary sat around wondering why lack of sleep was making her feel so awful. As became clear a couple hours later, Mary had her first bad case of traveler's diarrhea (and vomiting, basically the works), which is probably why she was feeling so lousy. Over the counter antibiotics in Egypt came to the rescue. Glad we weren't on that overnight train to Luxor!